Why the fuck did they travel to Afghanistan?! is the question burning in your mind right now, and we don’t blame you.
The country is plagued by war and considered one of the most dangerous countries in the world. Sensible governments advise against all but the most essential of travel in Afghanistan. Yet we went without a guide, without an interpreter, and without security.
So why did we?
The answer is simple, if a bit selfish: curiosity. We were curious to learn about its ancient history, spanning thousands of years. We were curious to see what life in the country was really like. We were curious to meet the people.
Why did we travel to Afghanistan?
Thousands of years of history with no one there to see
We wanted to see ancient Balkh, once capital of mighty Bactria, where Zoroastrianism was born and where Timur reigned supreme.
The ruins of the Masjid Sabz, Green Mosque, in Balkh.
To wander through Herat’s ancient citadel and admire its colorful Persian roots.
The Jame Masjid, Friday Mosque, in Herat.
We wanted to explore the Panjshir Valley, where the Mujaheddin held off the Russians, and bombed out tanks still stand as a testament to their strength.
We wanted to explore the caves of Bamiyan and stand before its (sadly desecrated) Buddhas.
Can you spot the buddha enclaves in the background?
Simply put, we wanted to see what Afghanistan had to offer.
Don’t believe everything you see on T.V.
But there’s more to it. When people think of Afghanistan, they think of war and violence, Predator Drones and Taliban, bomb blasts and murder of religious minorities and security personnel. Not people.
Afghanistan is filled with people trying to live their daily lives, constantly coping with the threat of violence while trying to make a living. They laugh together with their friends, they cry together with their families. They are mothers and fathers and sisters and brothers, not just a bunch of angry men with turbans and Kalashnikovs.
We wanted to meet these very real people and hear their stories, to go beyond the news flashes and learn the Afghan people’s perspective.
Where no man dares to tread
Of course, we also take a certain pride in going places where not many other travelers go. Not because it’s “cool” or because it makes us “interesting”—if we wanted that we could’ve hiked through the remote Wakhan Corridor, the only safe place in Afghanistan and a hotspot for people looking to check Afghanistan off their bucket list… sans-risk.
Wandering along the walls of ancient Balkh.
No, we seek out these places because they scream to have their stories told, and are dying to welcome international visitors (other than aid workers) once more. Tell an Afghan you’re a tourist, not an aid worker, and you’ll be blinded by the smile blossoming across their face.
But we might just be insane
We hope that by going here, without any form of protection or hired help, we can show the world it’s possible. If you’re crazy enough to dream of it, you can, too.
Some of you might think we’re foolish. Some of you think we just went to get attention. Some of you might think we’re batshit crazy.
You might be right.
Curious about traveling to Afghanistan, too? Check out our comprehensive Afghanistan travel guide!
Thank you for sharing this! I imagine that this took away much pain after having only the dark story of Afghanistan. I imagine it to be a beautiful place along with beautiful people. Thank you for painting such a beautiful picture for the people who aren’t able to.
Thanks for the kind words Candace! There’s both beauty and ugliness to be found in Afghanistan, but we were fortunate enough to experience more of the former than the latter.
I’m an Italian married to an Afghan and currently living in Afghanistan, the country is dangerous. You have visited the safest areas of the country, which are very few as most provinces are under Taliban attack/control. And even in places like Herat, the city is safe, but the surroundings are not as they have a heavy Taliban presence.
As I have mentioned in one of my latest articles, I’m not discouraging travellers to come to Afghanistan but especially foreigners MUST follow proper security measures. I, myself, travelling with my Afghan husband, try to blend with locals as much as I can by dressing like them and speaking the local language whenever I can. The TV is not even saying half of the dangers in Afghanistan, what they constantly lie about is to describe Iran in more dangerous terms, and this is the nonsense, Iran is the safest country in the region, Afghanistan is a war zone in all aspects.
Thank you so much for writing this piece. I am 20 years old from Kabul Afghanistan. I am now abroad because of my studies, I travel a lot, and when ever I travel and meet new people, and, tell them that I am from Afghanistan, you can’t imagine the look on their faces… And then the questions they ask me… 🙁 I always feel bad when I read the news and articles written about Afghanistan. Because they always talk about one thing: “war, war and war”… This was so refreshing. I am going to share this on my Facebook so people can see a different side of my country.
P.s, anytime you need help with something anywhere in Afghanistan, do let me know, I have a lot of contacts. My email is zarsarmast@gmail.com
Thank you <3
Love
Zar
Sorry for the super late reply. Sometimes we space out a bit. We’re glad you liked the article, and we’re really happy we could show the country from a different perspective.
Happy to read a different perspective on a country that receives too many bad looks over the last decade.
That paragraph about being a tourist and not an aid worker surprised me the most. I can understand how it feels to be seen as forever helpless and not able to do anything like you have some disability because of your postcode.
Maybe you`re crazy, but you`ll have great stories to tell to your grandchildren/us!
WOW. I am so glad I found this post. My boyfriends dad backpacked the middle east 30+ years ago and I’ve been obsessed with reading different perspectives on Afghan. I have friends who served there that can’t really offer much insight other than ‘dusty and sandy’. This was really great to read and I think people need to outline more of the positive aspects of travelling to a culturally and historically rich are of the world. Dangerous or not. We as humans dwell on the negative but never take time to reflect on the small positivity. Which leaves me asking myself why the fuck have you not been to afghanistan?
Hey the last picture is of Alex in a hospital. What happened to her? Is she okay now?
Wow, so sorry for the late reply. Alex is fine, just had a little food poisoning 😉
So, because of it’s Great ancient history, you adventured into Afghanistan because: you wanted to…this..you wanted to that.. ” With your long list of “wanted to’s”, you felt; in your ‘superior’ judgement, that those list of your “wanted-to” are the remarkable historical facts about Afghanistan.(huh?) This gets me wondering if you ever imagined that among your readers would be Muslims, too!….
And hey, that story: about having to Lie to gain entry into Afghanistan…and afterwards…making derogatory remarks about their cultures, their belief(which they have freely chosen for themselves) and even, passing judgement: about what is “normal” as against the Afghan ‘abnormal’ ways…
Come to think of all that: Who/What the hell, gave you the competence to decide what is ‘ normal’ for others?! By whose standard are you defining what is “normal” and what isn’t.
Why the fuck did you go to Afghanistan(?)
But Who the Fuck invited you to Afghanistan!!!???
Know what? – your own ways are way provocative, even if you work undercover; for politics.
Spread Peace Around The Word and Let Afgans be.
You suffering from some kind of #phobia??
Deal with it!!!
Sorry sir, but we have no idea what you’re trying to say beyond accusing us of… something.
For the record, the majority of our readers are Muslim. But none of them seemed quite as distressed by this article as you.
Your writing is captivating, no doubt! That was what kept me glued in it; till the end – so much that before getting to the end, I was already getting convinced in my mind that I would definitely share it across all my personal social network places (but Thanks to ALLAH (GOD) ) that I didn’t commit what would have been the most stupid mistake of my life! thus, I read on; to the end – only to realize that your travel blog about Afganistan, was most unfair in most of it’s contents.
But, only a reader who could read “between-the-lines” and who ‘can see the handwriting on the wall’, would understand that most of the contents were with so much sacarcims that contain subtle attempts to mock, ridicule and undermine the Fundamental Belief upon which, those Afghan folks base their ways of life –
which is: ISLAM!
The fact that you skilfully and conveniently avoided mentioning ‘ISLAM’, is exactly the pointer to my allegation!
But then, I can read-between-the-lines! And, I am a Muslim, but not from among the stock of passive Muslims; who constitute the other Muslim readers you made reference to.
Please, try seeking the opinion of some serious practicing Muslims; about that blog, so you know if I would be the only Muslim who sees it the way I do.
We’re sorry sir, but the only part on this page that might be considered as undermining Islam are your remarks about our followers and how they might practice their faith.
Thank you so much for sharing your experiences and thoughts and showing a different image of Afghanistan.
No one who knew Afghanistan before 9/11 can fail to note the remarkable changes that have taken place here: the dramatic increase in life expectancy and decrease in child and maternal mortality rates; the elections for President, parliament, and provincial councils; the distribution of millions of cell phones, many connected to the Internet; the flourishing of the mass media; the construction of office and commercial towers, roads, and, airports; and, perhaps most important, the spread of education, which is creating a generation of professionals who, as they move into positions of influence, are sure to transform the country.
It’s our pleasure. We can imagine the country has made some progress. Our Afghan friends often joked about the rapid rise of mobile phone usage and 3G, even though many people don’t quite know how to use their phones. Let’s hope future generations can build on the process and sacrifices already made. Based on the people we’ve met, we think it’s possible.
I love your approach! We are currently (veeery slowly, spending the winter in Turkey) on our way hitchhiking from Europe to India and I would like to cross Afghanistan on the way. To be honest, I give little thought to the safety concerns I hear from outsiders (media) but usually ask the locals where I can or cannot go. Didn´t get in trouble yet! Oh, not to forget, I love your photos too. 🙂
That sounds like a great journey. Hitchhiking in Afghanistan is not recommended, though, due to the obvious safety hazards. Getting out over land isn’t possible either, unfortunately.
Thanks for all the compliments!
Yeah, I figured it´s not the best place to hitchhike. But didn´t know it´s not possible to leave by land…something to count with when we´re in the zone.