The best thing about traveling in Bhutan was… what?!

Foreigners are required to be with a guide or on a guided tour when in Bhutan. Independent travelers might cringe at the idea—we know we did—but the reality of being on a guided tour in Bhutan wasn’t quite what we expected.


Pothole. Swerve. Bump! Pothole. Swerve. Thump!

The final road to the Bhutanese border from Assam was wretched at best, and the endless bumping and swerving didn’t do much to quell my nerves. Our mandatory tour guide for the next few weeks, “Mr. Karma”, was waiting for us at the end of the road… and I was dreading the fact.

What it's like to go on a guided tour in Bhutan - Driving to the Gelephu border gate between India and Bhutan - Lost With Purpose travel blog

The final road to the border gate

I imagined Mr. Karma as a wrinkly old man with hairy warts, clad in white trainers and a green plastic sun visor. Mental images of him droning factoids into a tour bus microphone flashed through my mind, and to say I was unenthusiastic would be a gross understatement. Sebastiaan and I pride ourselves on being independent travelers, and the idea of having a tour guide/babysitter for several weeks was, admittedly, not one we relished.

With a final bump, our car pulled up to the busy Gelephu border gate between India and Bhutan. As we pulled our backpacks out of the trunk, my dread turned to surprise when a young man in black Nike trainers and a slate gray Bhutanese gho emerged from the crowd to greet us.

“Hello, I am Karma. Welcome to Bhutan!” he smiled, before taking our bags and flitting off to arrange our visas.

Two minutes in the country, and my expectations were already unraveling. If only I’d known that, over the coming three weeks, Karma would become the highlight of our trip to Bhutan.


From well-preserved culture to jaw-dropping vistas, there’s plenty to look forward to when planning travel to Bhutan. But our favorite part of our trip to Bhutan turned out to be something completely unexpected! Click through to find out what our favorite part of traveling Bhutan was.


What is it like to have a tour guide in Bhutan? - Karma on the Gasa - Laya trek - Lost With Purpose travel blog

Man of the hour month

A different direction

How exactly did a tour guide win over two stubbornly independent travelers?

Well, let’s start with the facts: Karma and the group tour guides all did an excellent job throughout our 3+ weeks in Bhutan. A guide’s primary job in Bhutan is to ensure guests are having the best time possible, and that played out in a variety of ways.

Take trekking as an example. As we hiked up to Laya for the Royal Highlander Festival, Karma and the group’s other guides constantly scrambled up and down the mountain, making sure everyone was happy and safe. Some of us had already settled at the night’s camp when word reached our guides’ ears that someone further back was struggling. Karma dashed back down the mountain to find and help them without a moment’s hesitation. No mean feat at 3,000 meters above sea level.

Our experience having a tour guide in Bhutan - Karma trekking in the Himalayas - Lost With Purpose travel blog

Halfway through the Gasa – Laya trek to the Royal Highlander Festival. The air was definitely starting to thin by this point!

Another morning, the group visited a historical dzong, or fortress. Karma knows we like avoiding crowds and seeking out alternative photo angles, so while the masses snapped photos of the main entrance, he sidled up to Sebastiaan and I.

“If you go over there, there are less people and nice views,” he murmured before returning to accompany the rest of the group.

What is it like to go on a guided tour in Bhutan? - A monk at a temple near Punakha dzong - Lost With Purpose travel blog

Right he was!

Our first weekend exploring Thimphu, Bhutan’s capital, we were interested in experiencing Bhutanese nightlife. Karma and Peldon, another guide, arrived in Saturday night threads to take us to one of Thimphu’s clubs for a night of drinks and dancing to pop remixes. Contrary to the droning historical tour bus lectures I anticipated, we had shouted conversations over blasting beats in a club filled with flashing lights, hazy smoke, and hip Bhutanese youth.

Our experience with a tour guide in Bhutan - Selfie after going out in Thimphu - Lost With Purpose travel blog

No night out is complete sans-selfie, right?

Not exactly what I expected!

The human element

Those moments were important, but our satisfaction stems from more than guides showing us a good time or keeping everyone safe. The beauty of our time in Bhutan with Karma and the other guides lies in the details, not the grand picture.

To us, travel is more than just showing up and snapping photos in pretty places. When we visit a destination, we want to meet new people, see how they live, and learn a bit about their lives. You can learn so much more from speaking with others than from any museum or exhibition, and our fondest memories of traveling are of people we met along the way.

Sebastiaan and I were afraid having a guide would mean missing out on this human element of travel. If we were to be constantly accompanied by someone on a schedule, how would we meet anyone except our guide, driver, and hotel receptionists?

Meeting local people in Bhutan - The cutest old ladies in Thimphu - Lost With Purpose travel blog

The cutest old ladies in Thimphu, Bhutan’s capital

Our fears were unfounded. Traveling with Karma for more than three weeks turned out to be a chance to travel Bhutan with a Bhutanese friend. Not only was it nice to have a local friend joining us on our adventures, it was also an opportunity to delve deeper into Bhutan than we ever could on our own. Karma understood we were interested in talking with people and experiencing normal life in Bhutan, and did everything in his power to make that happen.

Now, when I think back to Bhutan, memories of towering dzongs or cultural shows are far from the forefront of my mind.

Instead, I think back to traipsing down narrow paths through Kuengarabten village, Karma’s childhood home for several years. One golden morning, he took me to the local school, where he introduced me to a crowd of curious schoolchildren waiting for school to start. They were initially shy, but Karma made jokes with them and asked them questions, and the shy stares were eventually replaced with grins and giggles.

What are guided tours in Bhutan like? - Curious schoolchildren in Kuengarabten village - Lost With Purpose travel blog

Say cheese ema datsi!

Our experience going on a guided tour in Bhutan - School children making faces in Kuengarabten - Lost With Purpose travel blog

… just kidding. Being serious is no fun!

Memories of warm afternoons come to mind, like when we sipped homemade rice wine on a total stranger’s porch in a village in southern Bhutan. That afternoon, Karma was hunting for the caretaker of a locked temple. After a shouted conversation over terraced rice paddies with a boy living near the temple, we ended up with an invitation to lunch. One hour later, we were lounging in the family’s house, waiting for a homemade lunch as Karma translated the curious questions of the eldest son.

Do you need a guided tour in Bhutan? - Local house in rice fields outside of Tingtibi in Zhemgang district - Lost With Purpose travel blog

Not a bad spot for a bit of lunch, eh?

I’ll never forget the afternoon on a balcony in Trongsa, a town in central Bhutan, when we were shooting the moon with Karma, an ex-tour guide, and our host from the previous night. The juxtaposition of the ex-guide pulling up his traditional clothing to show a sleeve of tattoos on his arm and the sprawling Trongsa dzong in the background was utterly surreal.

Do I need a tour guide in Bhutan - Trongsa dzong as seen from a hotel balcony - Lost With Purpose travel blog

An epic backdrop for our little chat

Then there was our final night in Bhutan, when I cruised the capital’s smooth roads with Karma and one of his friends. Laughter filled the car as we rambled about how cool it was to hang out so casually with each other despite coming from opposite ends of the world, and my being a tourist to Karma’s guide.

Why having a tour guide in Bhutan is amazing - Driving in the car in Thimphu - Lost With Purpose travel blog

Thimphu nights

Far from being cut off from the people of Bhutan, Karma introduced us to new people everywhere we went.

Is that normal?

Of course, everyone’s experience is different.

I’d choose a good chat over a pretty sight any day, but you might not feel the same. Karma was great at reading people and striking up conversations, but he wouldn’t win prizes for memorizing obscure historical facts. We had a grand old time with all of our guides, but we were generally similar in age, and all flexible people. Can you expect such a candid tour guide experience when you visit Bhutan?

I say: why not?

What is it like to go on a guided tour in Bhutan? - Karma at the end of the Druk Path - Lost With Purpose travel blog

Karma leading the way at the end of our Druk Path trek

Our anecdotes from on the road don’t seem to be isolated incidents. Others on our group tour much older than us shared stories of their previous visits to Bhutan. They told us of guides showing them around bars in Thimphu, taking them up to secret view points, and going out for late night conversations over snooker tables. They said these were some of their favorite memories from Bhutan.

Traveling in Bhutan with a tour guide - Beers in Thimphu with Karma and Chegyel - Lost With Purpose travel blog

Some goodbye beers in Thimphu with Karma and Chegyel, another one of our guides from the group tour

In our own experience, we watched our tour group get along swimmingly with the group guides. There were plenty of hours of laughter, songs, and jokes throughout our two-week group excursion. Despite almost everyone in the group having extensive travel experience—and preferring independent travel—everyone agreed the guides were the heroes of Bhutan’s show.

A good review of tour guides in Bhutan - Karma and the group tour guides on the suspension bridge in Punakha - Lost With Purpose travel blog

Karma and two of the group guides hamming it up for the camera in Punakha

Keep an open mind

So take it from this independent traveler—tour guides in Bhutan are something to look forward to, not dread. Bhutan is incredible in and of itself, but exploring it with Karma was like icing on the already decadent cake.

I know the guide requirement is a sticking point for some of you, but I urge you to approach the need for a guided tour in Bhutan with an open mind and heart. At the very least, your guide(s) will teach you a more about Bhutan than you could ever learn from a book or TV show. At the very best, you’ll find a new friend on your trip to Bhutan.


What's it like to go on a guided tour in Bhutan - Karma showing us the Trongsa dzong - Lost With Purpose travel blog

Exploring the inside of the Trongsa dzong

How to get the most out of your guide or guided tour in Bhutan

Not all guides and tour companies are made equal. Unfortunately, there are plenty of tour companies in Bhutan who cut corners and secretly undercut the country’s minimum tourist fee. When cutting costs, the quality of guides and the care they receive is the first thing to go.

When planning your visit to Bhutan, choose a reputable tour company who looks out for their guides. Trust me, it will show in your tour!

What it's like to go on a guided tour in Bhutan - Three tour guides walking on the streets of Thimphu - Lost With Purpose travel blog

Guides on the loose in Thimphu

During the planning stages, don’t be afraid to ask the company questions about your guide. If you love history and need a walking encyclopedia, that can be arranged. If flora and fauna tickle your fancy, tour companies can provide a guide who knows their Jasminum auriculatum from their Jasminum multiflorum. All you need to do is ask.

Once in Bhutan, don’t be afraid to speak up to your guide(s)… and to let them know if you want time to yourself! One of the biggest misconceptions about guided tours in Bhutan is that a guide must accompany you at all times. Though many people opt to stick with their guide while roaming about, you’re totally at liberty to wander around on your own. Hanging out with Karma was a blast, but there were plenty of times when we parted ways and wandered around by ourselves for a few hours. If we were happy, he was happy.

A review of our guided tour in Bhutan - Walking on a path in Phobjikha Valley on our own - Lost With Purpose travel blog

Exploring Gangtey town on our own

Our recommended tour agency for your Bhutan trip

We traveled to Bhutan on a sponsored trip with , and it was a blast. Gray Langur makes an effort to take care of all their guides, and match them with the right guests based on short interviews with potential customers. We were matched with Karma because we’re all flexible people more interested in ad hoc exploration than historical lectures, and we were obviously satisfied with the match.

We can highly recommend —and, more importantly, their guides—for your trip to Bhutan.

Want to know more about tours in Bhutan and what they include? Check out my guide to the tourism fee for Bhutan!


Guided tours or private tour guides are a requirement when traveling to Bhutan. As independent travelers, a being forced to go on a guided tour can seem like a deal breaker. But what is it really like to go on a guided tour in Bhutan? We assure you, it’s definitely not what we expected. Read on to find out what really happened on our tour to Bhutan.


Yay transparency! Gray Langur Tours covered the costs of our trip to Bhutan. However, all thoughts, photos, and love for Bhutan and its guides are assuredly our own.

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Alex Reynolds

American by birth, British by passport, Filipina by appearance. Addicted to ice cream. Enjoys climbing trees, dislikes falling out. Has great fondness for goats which is usually not reciprocated.

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17 thoughts on “The best thing about traveling in Bhutan was… what?!

    Zac says:

    Great post! I too am usually completely put off by the idea of guides or tour itineraries, but in some cases it can provide a much more fulfilling cultural exchange and even make travel more equitable.

    Two personal examples that come to mind are the Dharavi slum in Mumbai and the utopian commune of Awra Amba in Ethiopia; in both cases, locals were able to explain their communities from their own perspective and avoid any notions of poverty porn, all while allowing outsiders to meaningfully engage with those communities and provide a source of sustainable income. I took away from these experiences just as much as I have from my best independent travel experiences.

    Sounds like your experience in Bhutan was pretty similar! I had honestly lost interest in Bhutan when I first heard guides were compulsory but you’ve completely changed my mind, so cheers!

    Alex says:

    I totally agree—the freedom of independent travel is much more enticing to me now, but having a (good) guide really does help you connect with and understand people far more than you could on your own. Your point about equitable travel is important, as yes, locals should also learn or gain something from encounters with foreign tourists. Else, travel would not be so fundamentally different from looking at animals in a zoo.

    Anyway, I’m glad I could pique your interest in Bhutan again! If you have any questions about visiting there, you know where to find me 🙂

    farenexus says:

    All pictures very cool and beautiful. I like your blog

    Alex says:

    I’m glad you like it. Thanks!

    Tim UrbanDuniya says:

    I totally agree with you on this one! I went to Bhutan about 5 years ago, and my guide Pema and driver Rinzin were simply awesome! I normally don’t go for guided tours either, but in Bhutan they seem to have perfected the art of balancing the “need” for a guide with travellers’ want to experience the place. I really hope to go back one day 🙂

    Alex says:

    Bhutan seems to have perfected a lot of aspects of tourism… I was very impressed with the whole experience! I also can’t wait to go back… I’ll race you there 😉

    Zoie says:

    When you wrote, “To us, travel is more than just showing up and snapping photos in pretty places. When we visit a destination, we want to meet new people, see how they live, and learn a bit about their lives,” it made me so happy because that’s the kind of idea that I live by while traveling as well. I never want to go to a place, pass through, and come back home without really understanding the culture and people of that place. Your experience in Bhutan sounds amazing, and I hope the rest of your travels in 2018 are wonderful!a

    Alex says:

    It’s hard to ever *really* understand the cultures of places we just pass through while traveling; I’m of the opinion you have to live somewhere to really sink your teeth in. Nevertheless, we can definitely make an effort to learn and engage while traveling, and a guide is one way to do so!

    Thanks for the well wishes, and safe travels to you during your 2018 adventures 🙂

    Matt says:

    Lovely photos. Thanks for sharing your experiences.

    Alex says:

    Cheers! I’m happy to share them, I really did have a blast with Karma while in Bhutan 🙂

    Christina Loke says:

    Hi Alex,
    I absolutely 100% agree with you on this. I just came back from Bhutan about 2 weeks ago and although I felt the pinch from the daily tariff, I would definitely do it all over again because of the Bhutanese hospitality. Even now in the office where I’m supposed to be working, I’m searching for blogs on Bhutan! 🙂 Anyway, wishing you happy travels for 2018! 🙂

    Alex says:

    The fee is definitely not trivial, but I think Bhutan has proven it’s worth it! I’m in the same boat as you—even though I’ve already been, I still love reading posts about Bhutan! It seems we’ve become addicted 😉

    Anjci says:

    It sounds like you had a great experience in Bhutan! I visited a couple of years ago, and enjoyed this unique country very much. I slightly resented having a guide though, and he was very keen to follow me around – a bit too much, in fact. I had to beg in the end to be let go for short walks for some much-needed privacy, but felt that the permission was given reluctantly. Anyway!… The overall impression was positive, but I looked forward to regaining my freedom! : )

    Alex says:

    That’s a shame that your guide was so… restrictive. But, at least now if you return, you know to ask for a guide who’s a little less controlling 😉 Clearly it makes all the difference!

    Tenzin Rai says:

    I totally agree with you on this one, I went to Bhutan about 2 years ago.and my guide Bhutan Mahayana Tours were simply awesome! when we visit a destination or any picnic spot we want to meet new peoples and learn a little bit about their lives & cultures. last things I want to tell, Bhutan is incredible the place everybody should visit once in their life.

    Kristine says:

    Wonderful narration with amazing photos! Reading your post brings me back to my trip to Bhutan about a year ago. Missing the sceneries and the entire experience dearly!

    sudhanshu singh says:

    All pictures very cool and beautiful. I like your blog.great post.keep up the nice work.

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